Styroplast Foam CoatingProtect and beautify with our one-of-a-kind brush-on encapsulant!Whether you are producing signage or protecting delicate forms for themed scenery, Styroplast will outperform all other coatings. The ultimate brush-on foam encapsulant that's specifically designed to create a durable, impact- and fire-resistant shell on various substrates, including EPS/Styrofoam, insulation foams, and wood. For a comparison of our Foam Coats, click here. To see foam projects made using this product, click here. California Proposition 65 Warning: Features:
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Instructions:
USEFUL TIPS: Warming Part B Poly component to 70-75 degrees before use will make mixing much easier. An air conditioned room will deliver an ideal low humidity and slow drying environment. Move coated object to a warm area to promote faster drying. Use our Medium Mesh for extra strength, especially in seams and corners. Apply multiple coats when needed. Best to re-apply 2-12 hours after each coat is applied. Easily sanded between coats. EQUIPMENT: Ordinary paintbrush, notched trowel, or squeegee. Clean up (before mixture dries) with acetone or MEK. REACTIVITY: Potlife (brush): 12-15 minutes @ 76°F (Up to 20 minutes in cool dry environment); Potlife (trowel): 9-12 minutes @ 76°F (Up to 20 minutes in cool dry environment.) MIXING: 1 unit ISO/Part A: 3 units POLY/Part B by volume, or 1 unit ISO: 3.55 units POLY by weight. If needed, power mix Poly component before beginning to apply. This can take up to 5 minutes per 1 gallon pail with proper mixing equipment. Mix with a slow speed drill and paddle mixer. Hand mixing is fine for small quantities. Must mix very exact proportions. Highly recommend using our reusable accessory measuring Syringe or an accurate scale for small quantities. APPLYING: You only have 10-20 minutes to brush or trowel onto your foam project. We recommend having one person pour the mixed Styroplast while another brushes or trowels it over all surfaces. It tends to drip down, so you will need to brush it upward until it sets up. (NOTE: If it pools on a horizontal surface, tilt your foam so it pours out.) To extend application time, bring the humidity down as much as possible. An air conditioner (not a swamp cooler) will help.CURE TIME: Applied coating will set in about 2 to 5 hours at 70°F, depending on film thickness, liquid material temperature and the substrate temperature. Generally, complete cure takes from four to five days at room temperature. Product can be placed into service after one complete day of cure at 70°F minimum. After four days cure the hardness is around 65 shore D. Higher hardness may be attained by post heating the part to 90 – 110 F after 6 hours cure time. If you paint after 12 hours you will need to lightly sand the surface, or better to apply an epoxy primer for paint to stick. WARNING: Avoid contact with skin. Wear dust, skin and eye protection. Use approved respirator when mixing and sanding. In case of eye contact, flush immediately with water, consult a physician. Wash hands with soap and water after use and before eating. Keep out of reach of children.
Tech Specs:FIRE RESISTANCE: Styroplast is self-certified as UL-94 V0 at 60 mils thickness. Flash Point: ASTM D-56 (TCC): Greater than 200°F CHEMICAL RESISTANCE: Hydrolytic Stability: Recovers after 10 days 150°F immersion. Generally resistant to most dilute aqueous agents when cleaned off within 10 hours of contact. Very difficult to stain by virtue of its high hardness and low porosity. Constant or frequent immersion service not recommended. TENSILE PROPERTIES: ASTM D-412; Tensile Strength: 2742 psi; Elongation: 9.7 %; Yield Strength: 2653 psi; Elastic Modulus: 17,127 psi. TEAR RESISTANCE: ASTM D-624: 156 lb/in. HARDNESS: ASTM D-2240; Shore D: 65 - 70 depending upon post cure Conditions. LIQUID COMPONENT PROPERTIES: Solids: % Nonvolatile (wt): 100% Viscosity: Poly Component: Moderate - High @ 77°F; ISO Component: 200 cps @ 77° DENSITY: Poly Component: 12.11 lbs/gal. ISO Component: 10.3 lbs/gal TOXICITY: ISO Component contains isocyanate (the ISO side has similar health hazards as Gorilla glue). Due to toxicity, spraying is not recommended. When brushing, ventilation, gloves and protective clothing required during application. SHELF LIFE: When left sealed, twelve months for Part B and six months for Part A. They will last longer than that when stored properly. Part A, when left open, will draw moisture out of the humid air and create bubbles, so keep container closed at all times. Click here for Foam Coating and Gluing FAQs
Additional Info:
WARRANTY: HWFF Inc./dba Hot Wire Foam Factory warrants this product to be of merchantable quality when used or applied in accordance with the instructions herein. The product is not warranted as suitable for any purpose or use other than the general purpose for which it is intended. Liability under this warranty is limited to the replacement of its product (as purchased) found to be defective, or at the shipping companies’ option, to refund the purchase price. In the event of a claim under this warranty, notice must be given to The Hot Wire Foam Factory in writing. This limited warranty is issued and accepted in lieu of all other express warranties and expressly excludes liability for consequential damages. MSDS available.
California Proposition 65 Warning: This product contains isocyanate, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive harm. Ventilation, gloves and protective clothing required during application. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov or HWFF's information page: California Proposition 65.
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What do I need to waterproof and hard coat styrofoam making a styrofoam pontoon for kayak?
Hi Tony,
Styroplast will be the best.
It's a very strong waterproof encapsulating coating that is very lightweight in proportion to its impact resistance. You might consider adding Mesh where there are seams and at any stress points.
Would love to see how this turns out,.
Will Styroplast also stick to wood?
It will stick to wood, but if the wood is sealed or painted it won't stick as well as if it is still somewhat porous.
If work time is 20 minutes, what quantity of mixed SP does that represent? I don't want to mix an entire gallon can of the coating and then have half of it harden while I am trying to spread the first part. I am working in a fairly warm building too, so I have to factor that in. What quantity do you recommend i mix each batch?
I'd say watch the video on the Styroplast page to get a good feel on how much you can work with per mix. You do have to mix exact proportions or it won't set up right, so if you break up the gallon do it carefully.
It will set up faster if the weather is warm and humid. It's best to get the Part B (white) warmed up to at least 75 degrees so it is more liquidy when you mix it. Then apply it in a cool place, preferably cooled with an air conditioner which will dehumidify the air (NOT a swamp cooler).
