Bounce RubberizerThe #1 Solution for Adding 'Flex' to Your Foam!A flexible, protective coating that resists cracking and chipping. Use Bounce on its own as a sealant or adhesive, or mix it with All Purpose Foam Coat for finishes ranging from flexible and crack-free to super-bouncy. Perfect for high‑traffic projects like playgrounds or walkways that normally see a lot of wear-and-tear.
⚠ Not for use with Exterior Foam Coat or Create Coat
Click here for Foam Coat Mixing Details and User Tips Click here for Foam Coating and Gluing Tips For a comparison of Foam Coats, click here To see foam projects made using this product, click here Instructions:
Mixing: Use Bounce with no added water for maximum flexibility. All Purpose Foam Coat comes out more flexible when no or less water is added to the Bounce. For a super rubbery coating, try a liquidy mixture of 9 parts Bounce to one part All Purpose Foam Coat, adding the powder to the Bounce, until the desired thickness is attained.
Can also be applied alone, or with just a little bit of Foam Coat to create a strong flexible paintable sealant. For a chip resistant coating, start with 1 part liquid to 1 part All Purpose Foam Coat, and thin or thicken as desired. Dilute the Bounce with water before mixing with Foam Coat to get a less flexible, super smooth, chip-resistant surface. Thin layers can be applied to vertical and inverted surfaces with little or no sagging. Applying: Fill holes with pasty mixture. To coat large areas, make a more liquidy mixture until thin enough to apply with a paint brush. May be applied as thick as 3/8 inch, but multiple coats are stronger. Looks like smooth stone when dry. Try texturing the surface before coating sets. Bounce is compatible with our Grit Texturizers. Can be smoothed while drying, but not sandable once dry. Set Time: Use within 15 minutes. Sets up in 30 minutes. Maximum bond and strength in 24 hours. Clean-Up: Immediately clean tools and brushes with soapy water. Finishing: Paint or stain as desired.
Videos:
Additional Info:WARRANTY: HWFF Inc./dba Hot Wire Foam Factory warrants this product to be of merchantable quality when used or applied in accordance with the instructions herein. The product is not warranted as suitable for any purpose or use other than the general purpose for which it is intended. Liability under this warranty is limited to the replacement of its product (as purchased) found to be defective, or at the shipping companies’ option, to refund the purchase price. In the event of a claim under this warranty, notice must be given to The Hot Wire Foam Factory in writing. This limited warranty is issued and accepted in lieu of all other express warranties and expressly excludes liability for consequential damages. MSDS available.
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I am making a replica of an antique motion picture camera as a stage prop. It won't get handled on stage, but it will be used year after year. I don't want it to get banged up, but it can't weigh too much. Would All Purpose Foam Coat with Bounce be my best bet?
Normally to get a really rubbery coating you add just a little All Purpose Foam Coat to the Bounce to give the Bounce body, but in your project I think you should mix the 10-20% Bounce with 90-80% water and go heavy on the Foam Coat. This will make it chip resistant, but not too rubbery. This won't be sandable once it dries, but you can smooth it by tapping on the camera prop while the Foam Coat is liquidy, to make it smooth out. You can further smooth it as it dries.
Hi there, I'm planning on creating a 5-foot tall foam stake for a Halloween costume (witch burning at the stake). I'll be wearing the stake, and it will be tied with rope to me. I'm worried the rope will fray and beat up the foam, so I want to coat it. I will be carving details (like knots and lines) into the foam to make it look like wood. I also need it to be light, as I'll be wearing it all night. I've purchased your foam coat kit, so I have most of them, but I'm really not sure which will give me the right effect. I don't want it to go on so thick that it fills all the grooves, and I don't want it to go on rough so that the foam doesn't look like wood. Can you help me determine what foam coat to use? Thank you! Susan
Hi Susan,
Most Cosplay people are using mostly Bounce and adding All Purpose Foam Coat to thicken it. I'd use 90-95% Bounce to 5-10% Foam Coat. This will be fairly light and strong. My wife made a large 'wooden' shield using this formula. It's not rock solid but it's held up through a few trade shows. Anywhere the rope will be touching the foam prop you should wrap with Mesh. You might have to use a thicker mix (higher percentage of Foam Coat to Bounce) where you cover the Mesh so it doesn't show through the coating.
The other option is to use Styroplast, our plastic coating. This is used for props and backdrops in amusement parks where they will get a lot of abuse. Check out the Durability Test video that one of our customers made!
Outrageous idea for a costume. You've got to send us pictures of the build and finished piece!
We need to make soft rocks to use as stage props. We are creating a landslide for a motion picture, and don't want our stunt people to get bruised up.
Bounce and All Purpose Foam Coat will give you a fairly soft yet durable and rocky looking coating. We usually mix small amounts of All Purpose Foam Coat into the Bounce until we get it just pasty enough to not run off vertical surfaces when applied. It's best to have one person pour it onto the prop while a second person spreads it with a big stucco brush. You can't sand it once it dries, so you have to get the look you want while it is setting up.
A second choice is Styroplast, which dries into a soft plastic. In the Styroplast Follow Up Review near the bottom of our Video Tutorial page you will find a method of making Styroplast look like rock:
http://hotwirefoamfactory.com/customer/video/video.htm
